TANGER

The first time I heard of Tangier, was watching the movie "Only Lovers Left Alive", the very special love story of two centenarian vampires, played by Tom Hiddleston and Tilda Swinton. I remember being very fascinated by it (I know, it often happens), so much that in 2018 after making my first solo trip to Andalusia, I started planning one on the west coast of southern Spain with the expectation of being able to spend at least one or two days right in this beautiful coastal city in the northern Morocco.

It is no coincidence that during the preparations to move here to Almeria from Italy, I decided to renew my passport, precisely because the first trip I wanted to do would be there. Then COVID happened and ruined everyone's programs a bit, but I'm happy to be able, even if many months later, to realize this little dream.

There would be much more to write about the absolutely curious way in which life pushes us to meet our desires. Destiny, chance and conscious personal choices do meet in a single plot...taking us to the day we are living today.

I wish I could give much more details about this but I don't feel ready yet, so I'll just tell you that I didn't make this trip alone. Or rather that I made it thanks to the help of one person and his family in Tangier who hosted me and guided me to visit the city and some other nearby places. It is in this way that I was able to spend ten days immersed in a similar culture but also very different from ours, between beautiful moments and others a little more difficult but which contributed in making it a unique experience that will always remain a special memory in my heart.

Tangier is a very big city. If you think of Morocco as a third world country you are very wrong. At least in relation to its main cities. I was really very impressed: everything is extremely clean and tidy. There are large corners of greenery everywhere and I don't think I have ever seen such perfect gardens despite the people who walk there and often sit and rest under a tree or have a picnic. Outside the historic center everything is very modern, large buildings, shopping centers, hotels, cafes. Everything is mostly white or gray, the streets are lined with wrought iron street lamps with a romantically convoluted shape that I liked very much and then the palm trees, the blue sky and the sea complete it giving it that special summer touch.

A special mention should be made for the intense traffic in the center. Hundreds of cars that run here and there in the fast tram tram of the city life that accumulate mainly on the roundabouts. Be careful if you ever happen to go there, the rules of the highway code do not apply as we know it. One throws himself in and hopes to get there before the other goes on him, or praying that someone will let him through. Also beware of pedestrians who throw themselves from all sides to cross even the largest roads and who could do so at any time! In short, keep your eyes open even if maybe it might be better to have someone local to drive.

Among the first places I was able to visit there is Cap Spartel, where you can admire the Mediterranean Sea on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. It is for this particular feature that the city of Tangier is also called "the city of the two seas". The way to get there is a Beverly Hills-style path through the hills with its super luxurious houses including one of the big mansions of the King of Morocco, Muhammad VI. A few kilometers from there are the Caves of Hercules, a place of historical and mythological importance where it is said that the demigod was imprisoned and in order to free himself he broke the wall with a fist giving shape to what is now the opening of the cave overlooking the sea and also separating the continents of Europe and Africa. Really a suggestive place with a small museum that you can visit and with a nice view on the Atlantic coast.

Then of course there is the Kasbah in the ancient city center. A melting pot of super suggestive narrow streets full of bazaars, shops, souks and people walking back and forth, children playing and old men sitting and chatting while sipping the typical Moroccan mint tea. The most beautiful thing are the colors and scents of the streets, full of perfect corners for taking souvenir photos. And I never had the feeling of being in a dangerous place, quite the contrary. Everyone turned out to be very open and kind. If you are European, only pay attention to the prices...because here they make tourists pay a lot more than the locals.

And it is right here, in a slightly hidden corner, that the door of "Bab el Assa" is located. In this place the final scene of the film I was talking about at the beginning was shot, it was therefore an essential step to be able to take a picture of myself in the same place where my beloved Tom laid his booty. Not to mention that it is really a super cute place!

Finally, I would like to talk about the panoramic road that runs along the coast towards Merkala beach, where we often stopped for a snack waiting for the sunset. Once with a crepe and an orange juice sitting directly on the wall, where looking at the sea you can clearly see the Spanish coast. Another time instead with the "escargot" bought from a kiosk. Snails with broth here are a specialty and it was fun to try them in the parking, sitting inside the car and I must say they weren't bad at all! Then, if you walk along the wide sidewalk you will arrive at the port where a large mosque stands out. Unfortunately at the moment it cannot be visited due to the covid, but I took some pictures from afar and then continued the walk in the large square under the wall of the old Medina, wonderful in the blue light of the late afternoon. There I took the opportunity too to sit on the grass admiring the seagulls flying all over the city’s sky.

But do we also want to talk a little about food? People in Morocco are very hospitable and when they receive someone they care that they can also have an excellent gastronomic experience. And the Moroccan cuisine is one of the best I've ever tried! Starting with an authentic couscous that is traditionally accompanied as a drink by a kind of goat yogurt and then by different tajines with chicken and olives, with lamb, plums and eggs and also vegetarians. A fantastic spiced chicken with a sauce of onions and livers, and then a lot of fish, fried and grilled, clam chowder, seafood salad and bread accompanied by the most varied sauces. A couple of times I also ate Harira, a typical soup of lentils and chickpeas, eaten with dates or chebakia. (The famous fried spice cookies typical of Ramadan). And between one meal and another you go for a snack at the cafe! The most curious thing I have tried? A giant smoothie with layers of açai, mango and avocado topped with a lot of whipped cream and decorated with dried fruit and all kinds of sweets (Kit-Kat, Kinder Bueno, Oreo, chocolates etc...) a 1000 calories bomb probably! How my intestines managed to resist 10 days still remains a mystery and although I tried to explain my physical situation and tried to contain myself as far as possible, it was not possible to refuse and it would not have been respectful. So back in Spain I spent almost three days on the toilet hahaha but I will spare you this. If I had kept at a normal pace, I probably wouldn't have had any problems, but guys...in Morocco you have to eat a lot!!!

During these 10 days I also had the opportunity to get out of the city and visit some nearby places. The most famous is certainly the village of Chefchauen, nestled in the mountains which is also called "the blue pearl". Yes, because all its houses and streets are decorated or completely painted in a particular blue color that makes it truly unique. Unfortunately we could not linger more than a few hours, but the time was enough to enjoy an excellent lunch and take a nice walk through the alleys taking as many photos as possible.

I also had the great opportunity to spend an afternoon on a beautiful beach in Assilah, a small town overlooking the Atlantic southwest of Tangier. I don't know if you have ever had the opportunity to try but it is much more difficult to swim in the ocean...the waves are very strong even a few steps from the beach, so we just rolled in the shallow water, letting ourselves be carried away by the force of the waves as if it were a Gardaland attraction. Truly a fun and carefree afternoon, admiring the silvery mantle of the water expanding to infinity towards the horizon.

I admit, the organization of this trip was not planned in all details by me as I usually do, but for many things I trusted the advice and knowledge of my contacts in Morocco. Although initially it was perhaps a bit of a gamble, in the end this allowed me to live an authentic experience in contact with a culture different from ours and to deepen my knowledge directly. I discovered a rich and fascinating land that is modernizing very quickly but that at the same time remains very attached to its traditions and to the typical spirit of Islamic countries. There are very different things compared to European culture and although the tourist is absolutely protected, it is an aspect that should not be underestimated. Respect for the rules and good behavior is essential if you want to have a good experience.

I’m already home since a whole week and I have already started working at full speed, but when I’m resting my mind keeps on going back to this last journey which, like happens any other time, has left a mark inside of me. Besides the purely touristic side I have livedsome strong emotional experiences that will be impossible to forget.

Each journey opens our mind a little more, changes us, helps us to reflect and mature. Now for me a new phase of my life begins here in Almeria and the future, however uncertain, opens up to a thousand new possibilities. I admit that I still feel a little overwhelmed by all these emotions.

During a recent video call with my friends Marco and Annalisa, I was pleasantly asked: << And now where will your next obsession take you? >> Ehhh I'm curious to know too! Stay tuned and we will find out together!